The benefit of this is, that you see if there is something missing in a blink of an eye.
With courage and loyalty and precisely follow the instructions in the manual, components generally do get well out of the sheet. But nevertheless, not always.
What I try to do is collect items which together make a specific part of the model in a single little plastic bag, inside the larger bags.
The instructions are designed so that they make it clear and obvious which parts should end up where.
1. It is vital that you start your work on a FLAT surface. Like a cutting mat or something similar
It can be diluted in the blister, but I only do that for the use with Card Board.
MDF glues fine with undiluted PVA.
3. If you need to cut something: use a New blade in your hobby knife
4. Clothespins, cheap glue clips, rubber bands, etc., are useful tools in building MDF models.
5. If something does not fit right away: do not press through, to avoid damage. In the slots (for example, in roof surfaces) that give some resistance: the slide part is in the longitudinal direction of the slot.
6. Make sure that you don´t wipe of the excess of glue on to the model. I always try to wipe it off the edge, away from the model.Tiny blobs of PVA can be taken of, especially on inner corners with the sharp corner of a MDF Auxiliary Tool (included in most of the model kits).
7. Parts can pre-painted very well, or sprayed. That saves a lot of fussing afterwards.
The cardboard is after drying of the paint easy to bend in a straight shape.
8. Thin (0.3mm) Ivory Cardboard will warp when you paint it. This is normal and is very easy to correct when it is dry.
9. See for the bonding of Roof Shingles the separate Bonding Shingles Instruction.
10. If you experience difficulties with assembling your model, please do not hesitate and drop an message to me. I will usually reply within 1 or 2 days.